Installing Hi Torque starter motor, Powerlite RAC415

My motor has always been ponderously slow to turn over. I'm not sure if this is the compression on the motor or wear in the starter but I tend to suspect the latter. As you may recall my early investigations showed that the previous starter motor, as fitted to the car when I got it, was burned out. I presume due to trying to turn over a motor with jammed valves. I replaced this with a used substitute- this turned,  and indeed started the motor, but has always been slow- plus its had a lot of wear during my attempts to start the thing after the rebuild.  It seems to run the battery down very quickly as well, so I believe its taking a huge current- possibly also due to wear. I had always intended to swap it out for a more modern hi torque geared starter and I guess now is the time.

These geared starters are available from several sources- after a bit of a search I settled on a Powerlite RAC415 at £183 from Eurolec Components Ltd. This was some £60 less than others I was quoted.... and it included VAT and delivery! Bargain I think. The unit is about half the size (and weight) of the Lucas 3M100 and this worried me at first but it fits right in.

There are only 3 electrical connections, the battery positive and alternator charging cables (both to the copper stud terminal) and the relay activation wire (red/white to spade terminal). These are easily detached.

Boot over battery power cable

Detaching solenoid cable.

The motor is held on by only two nuts and bolts (17mm) easily undone as its not so long since I cleaned and refitted these anyway.

Starter top mounting...

...and bottom

Mounting the new starter was also easy in that it slipped right on to these two bolts. However there is a slight problem with the position of the terminals. You can mount the motor as I did (pics) in which case the terminal contacts are underneath and awkwardly placed, or you can mount it 180 degrees from this in which case the solenoid section is tight up against the block.

New motor in position

Look at all that space between the starter and oil filter!

I wanted to maximize space around the starter in the hope that I could  avoid the solenoid obstruction that prevented me from clipping up one of the airbox fastenings, so mounting it "terminals-down" seemed like a good starting point*.

I won't pretend that this isn't awkward, the dip stick is well placed to obstruct and you have to do the job largely by feel. I also think that at some point the cabling from the battery has been shortened and the cable just wouldn't reach the terminals in their new position. I may be able to adjust this later when I can get under the car and trace the cabling back, but for the time being I decided just to lengthen the cable. I used a crimped cable joiner and new eyelet to extend the cable. Fortunately I had lots of this stuff left over from a similar exercise in the battery compartment (see my previous post here).

I connected up the new motor and tried to start it.

What a revelation!! The difference is indescribable. The motor skipped over like a fairy in springtime and started immediately. I've never had a cranking speed like this and so I find myself  VERY impressed. If you don't have a hi torque starter already I can whole-heartedly recommend that you get one!!
* Although there is more room- sadly there is not enough room to solve the clip problem. When fitted like this the tensioner clip cannot be fastened because the top of the starter is in the way.

Fitted incorrectly, both hook and tensioning clips are on the outside the the starter, the lower tensioning clip should be "block-side"

If you wish to use this clip then its necessary to ensure that the tensioning clip is engine-side of the starter whilst the hook clip is over the motor and available for the airbox when you fit the airbox itself. If fitted as described the clip can be used although its advisable to fasten this one first.