Lotus Excel Pedal box 4: how I would remove it now!

Well the job of removing and replacing the pedal box has taken me four days! Most of this was caused by backtracking,  redoing things I had done wrongly and simply trying to find a more effective way to reach the offending fittings! So here is a short summary of how I would do the job if ever (heaven forbid) I have to do this job again! The following applies to the early cars which have a bracing system that attaches only to the steering column. Have a look at my various posts on removing and refitting the pedal box for illustrations.

1. Remove the steering column shrouds (1 screw either side two at front) Don't unscrew the central screw in the base of the bottom section.
2. Remove the instrument panel trim plate and then the  4 self-tapping screws that hold the panel on, and pull the whole dashpod forward off its two retaining posts.
3. As the panel comes forward disconnect the speedo cable (on these early cars its a clip fastening).
4. Reaching in through the dash panel opening, remove the two relays and using a flexible screwdriver remove the relay block mounting screws; pull the footwell heater ducting out of the pedal box.
5. From underneath remove the wiper delay module and disconnect the brake switch and cables from the earthing post.
6. Detach the brake and clutch M/C pushrods by removing the R clips and withdrawing their clevis pins. Leave the throttle cable attached  at this stage.
7. Detach the throttle cable at the carburettor end.
8. Remove the central knee pad trim to expose the steering column mountings; there are three of these. The front two screw into captive spacers. Remove the third using an 18mm stubby spanner to hold the loose nut from above and a 16mm socket on the bolt head below.
9. Preferably using a helper, hold the heads of the two bolts that penetrate through the top of the pedal box and emerge inside the engine bay (one bolt is below the heater air intake scuttle). Use 1/4 inch drive sockets on a wobble bar extn to reach the bolts from the underside.
10. Remove the brake master cylinder and then from inside the car remove the 4 servo retaining nuts using a 1/4 drive socket, UJ and extension rods. Remove the servo. Removing the clutch MC may also help.
11. The pedal box is now free, tip it down at the bulkhead side so that the steering column end rises, then slip the box to the right to clear the steering column and pull the box downwards. Do not pull too far as the throttle cable will limit the movement possible.
12. Reach around the box and detach the throttle cable by sliding it across the trunnion and down the slot so that the nipple is released through the keyhole. This should be achieved by sliding the cable to the right; but I have come across cars where movement to the left is necessary. The box is heavy with an awkward weight distribution; You may need a partner to support it through the the servo hole from outside the car.
13. When the box is out, I recommend that you check that the throttle cable trunnion has its keyhole opening on the right of the box- i.e. positioned towards the outside of the box and not facing towards the brake pedal.


Refitting is the reverse but note:
1. Use masking tape to secure the box spacers to the front two column mounting points; if your box had the bar spacer at the rear, tape that in position too.
2. Refit the throttle cable to the trunnion before positioning the box over the steering column. It can be done later (see below) but its best done before the box obstructs access.
3. Use screwdriver podgers to align the holes in the spacers with the bolt holes in the column mounts or bulkhead.
4. If you refit the cable after fitting the box (or if you are changing the cable) fit the new cable into the keyhole by poking the ball end into the keyhole and slipping it upwards. Snipe nosed pliers should help but beware; access is tricky- and impossible if the keyhole is positioned towards the brake pedal.
5. Ensure that the trunnion yokes on the brake servo and clutch MC pushrods locate over their respective pedals as these are refitted.
6.  If (who am I kidding- "When") you have trouble offering up the clevis pins to the trunnions mount them sideways across the end of a magnetic pickup tool and offer them up to the hole in the trunnions that way- easing them in from the side either with a finger if possible, or the flat bladed side of a screwdriver.
7. Use bolt or screwdriver podgers to align the servo holes in the pedal box with those in the body before refitting the brake servo.

If you are replacing the box make sure that the self-tapping screws that attach the relay block and wiper module do actually fit and tighten easily, also that the earthing post thread isn't stripped. If not select appropriate screws or drill out the holes and chase the thread if needed before fitting the pedal box as its awkward to do this later.