Refitting the 912 motor: Attaching the hoses

It was very satisfying to work out where and how the hoses were fitted. When I had dismantled the motor the hoses had seemed very complicated. Now as I refit everything, it does seem simpler and even a little smaller! Having learned my lesson, I "mocked up" the pipe runs to make sure everything will fit before actually attaching anything firmly.

Test fitting the rhs hoses

...and strut but I'm not sure which way up this should be fitted, this is how I found it but the fan wasn't fitted when I got the car so I can't be sure.

Have checked fitting and this is right... however it seems the large C clip needs to be bent outwards to hold the induction trunking and the bottom of the clip is missing. I welded a replacement wire section on and refitted the strut. The C clip can now accept the induction hose.

Repaired C clip refitted.

Since it seemed likely that the pipe run would fit I could go ahead and install the switch into the switch pipe.The otter switch was next- I am probably asking for trouble here because the housing quite clearly says its not to be reused! However, it seems impossible to buy only the rubber adaptor and the whole switch is very expensive. If I was to spend that much then I think I might replace the whole part for a more modern unit. Although I suspect this switch doesn't work (see on) I don't actually know that so I am thinking that as I am almost certain to have to drain this down again, I may as well fit what I have and see whether it works or not!

Rubber adaptor in the switch pipe

... and the otter switch itself

 I cleaned up the switch and fitted it into the housing using Wellseal

 Before tying it in tightly with a plastic grip strip between the electrodes.

Otter switch connectors are present and clear...

The connectors for the otter switch are present. I installed a new temperature gauge sensor in the water pump- this is an Intermotor part (52910). I sealed the threads with Loctite 243 threadseal. The sensor is served by a single green wire with spade connector.

I attached the thermostat housing with a new gasket but for the time being I am not including a thermostat as I think I will need to use some Radseal in the first running for reasons already explained.

new gasket for thermostat housing.

I could then install the heater hoses- the heater to head hose attached at the rear of the cylinder head

Heater to head hose

I could then fit the heater to pump hose. This seemed to be stretched over an incorrect route, but later when I fitted the belt guard with its integral heater hose clip, it turned out that this routing is correct.

Thermostat cover installed; Heater hose connected

I installed the radiator top hose, switch pipe and switch pipe to pump hoses loosely lubricating the connections with marine rubber friendly grease. This allows the hoses to be swivelled into the best positions before the  jubilee clips are tightened. The switch hose should be retained in position by a large (30mm) P clip fixed to the top of the radiator box. I do not have such a clip ... or have lost it, but have ordered one to add later.

Radiator rhs top hose and additions installed- the whole hose run will be stabilised when the new P clip arrives.The reservoir cap overflow pipe fits to a side connector on the switch pipe above the radiator. Here its been loosely fitted but I later fixed the route using the P clip attachment to the wing and the clips under the nose.

I then installed the left hand hoses (radiator bottom hose, and alloy intermediate pipe). The intermediate pipe has a connection for the reservoir hose, attached as a side hose.

The alloy intermediate pipe attaches to the water pump by a short stumpy length of hose- this seems a very unsatisfactory and inelegant design feature. 

Radiator lhs hoses installed.

Radiator bottom hose installed and attached to the intermediate alloy pipe. Reservoir connection installed on the take-off spigot and the short stubby hose attaching to the water pump is also in position.

The short hose is tricky to install but its easier if the  jubilee clips are positioned off the hose while its connected.

Jubilee clips slipped up and off the hose while the connections are made- they can then be slipped down and tightened as below.

I fitted the belt guard and this showed that the heater hose is in the correct location. However the bent and rusty appearance of this clip is offensive so I've removed the cover again to sort that out. I will paint it and install it with a new rivet. Overall hoses are installed and looking quite nice.

Belt guard in position- heater hose clip fits very nicely. reservoir connection shown in full.

This leaves a single stubby hose to install between the water pump and inlet manifold. This was tricky to remove and has to be fitted (or removed) together with the inlet manifold itself. I have the hose for this but currently lack the large jubilee clips needed to connect it.

There is however one remaining questions: I have got this clip remaining. I have already repainted this so it must be used for something but I cant remember where I got it!.... Response from Forum reminds me it was attached to thePAS reservoir to pump pipe although not to the car ! I think it attaches to the exhaust camcover.

Here the clip is fitted to the exhaust cam cover- I was surprised that it fitted the opposite way round to that I had expected but I think its a neat solution when fitted correctly. However its not possible to fit this once the motor is in unless removing the whole cam cover. I wasn't going to do this at the moment so I elongated the hole to make a slot which I could slip under the cam cover screw- I will get a complete one and fit that next time I am obliged to remove the cam covers completely- which I am hoping will be some considerable time in the future!

Hose clip fitted to cam cover- I had to turn the mounting hole into a slot to avoid having to remove the whole cover again.

I also refitted the throttle cable; the outer casing of the cable itself was split in three places- probably not serious under the bonnet but coming from motorcycles where such breaks let the weather in and lead to cable failure, I didn't want to leave it like that. I cleaned the breaks and sealed them with heat shrink tubing before oiling the cable with a motorcycle cable oiler. Note- the nuts washers and nipple do not come off the cable so you need to use wide heat shrink to get over these.

Break in cable outer case.

Heat shrink tube covers it nicely.

The throttle passes through a guide/adjuster secured to the inlet cam cover- this was a bit rusty but cleaned up well and I refitted it after the cable had been fixed.

Cable guide/adjuster- bit rusty and unpleasant I cleaned it...  

...and refitted it to the inlet cam cover