Spigot (pilot) bearing and my crankshaft woes!

Spigot Bearing 
I removed the motor from the stand and transferred it to the hoist so that I could work on the flywheel end. The first step was t renew the spigot bearing. This was in a sense the start of my woes! The manual states that the spigot bearing should be recessed 9.5-9.8 mm from the flanged end of the crank- I placed a flat edge across the flange and measured the depression of the spigot. Allowing for the thickness of the straight edge, to my surprise this one was inserted only 3 mm! I assumed that this was installation error and intended to fit the new one deeper.

Spigot bearing in position in end of crankshaft.

I removed it easily using the blind bearing kit from Draper- so much nicer than bashing out with grease and a plunger.

Select the right size collet

Insert and tighten to expand and lock

Attach slide hammer and remove!

The bearing came free very quickly- just 4-5 taps of the slide hammer.

The new bearing needs to be lubed with shell Retinax suitable for constantly rotating bearings. I think it comes pre-lubed but to be sure I worked some more in. The new name for Retinax is Gadus (I preferred the old name!) and its this red stuff. I worked it into the bearing.

The spigot has a rubber seal inside at one end. When fitting the seal should face outwards so this means the end with the embossed writing should face away from the motor.

Inserting spigot bearing note rubber seal oriented away from the motor

I used a small plug spanner to tap the spigot bearing home. The bearing requires Shell Retinax LX2 (now called Gadus S3 V220C 2) or similar for lubrication; a grease suitable for bearings in constant rotation.

 I used a spark plug socket to fit the spigot bearing but I was surprised when it bottomed out at only 3 mm depth.... and this Dear Reader is where everything comes undone and pigeons come home to roost.... I have the wrong motor!

The spigot bearing in the motor removed from the car was recessed to the expected 9.5 mm

Crankshaft end (flywheel mounting flange)- motor as removed from car; manual transmission

Crankshaft end (flywheel mounting flange) - Rebuilt Eclat auto transmission motor 

What is worse, the end of the crank looks suspiciously different. Obviously I couldn't make this comparison until I had removed the motor from the car- but now the difference is blindingly obvious.

One ray of hope (and the argument that originally pursuaded me to proceed) is that the flywheel from the auto (rebuilt) motor has apparently been dismantled to remove the flex plates present in auto setups and the centre discs of the flywheel show signs of having been re-attached. This and the insertion of a spigot bearing into its crank would only have been done for use with a manual gearbox- so that's good!

Centre plates flywheel from manual car- rivets melted and flatted as original to secure.

Centre discs Auto motor flywheel, held by new rivets (not flattened), discs slightly loose.

However, the motor number shows that this was originally the motor for an Automatic Eclat. These cars didn't have Toyota gearboxes but firstly BL and later Getrag units. The first Eclat-Excels would have been Toyota I think,  but it is very possible that this motor was never made to mate with a Toyota gearbox at all- and that's really bad!
However the question now arises as to whether it will fit so I tried to take some measurements.

Firstly, the crankshaft flanges extend beyond the case mounting flange by 2.5 cms in both cases- measured using a set square across the flange and a ruler to the case edge.

Set square across the crankcase end flange, ruler to case mating surface

25mm protrusion

Since these protrude to the same extent from the case, the depths of spigot bearing drilling then become significant.
Secondly, I determined the drilled depth using a drill bit close to the size of the gearbox shaft- in this case 14 mm. This was inserted into the spigot bearing until it bottomed out and then scribed using a straight edge across the drilling.

Straight edge across close fitting drill bit

The striations resulting from the penetration test.

This showed that the drilling in the auto crankshaft was some 3.5 mm shallower than that in the original manual crankshaft. Hope still lives though as even this reduced depth is greater than the sleeve length on the gearbox shaft and consequently  However, it seemed possible that there might be sufficient clearance in the drilling, although there remains the possibility that there may not be enough in the smaller conically machined recess. The gearbox shaft might bottom-out in the crank boss. Compared with the automatic motor the sleeve should be interacting with the spigot some 6 mm further in and if it jams on the crank boss this would stop the cases fitting. I was unable to determine exactly how far the gearbox shaft protrudes past the gearbox bell house mating surface (and therefore how far it needs to penetrate into the crankshaft), as I lacked a long enough straight edge. Given the shallower drilling for the spigot bearing I suspect that these effects will combine to mean that the gearbox shaft will not have enough room to slide suggestively into the crank.

Still... proof of the pudding etc. First thing is to try and fit the motor as it is- fingers crossed! I dont feel like doing this twice so I will refit the flywheel and clutch first just in case Im lucky!!

 I have found a company who should be able to machine the crank in position for about the same cost as a replacement crankshaft- but of course it would save me the trouble of re-stripping the motor and rebuilding it, so this will be my fall back position.

Readers... COMMENTS AND HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME.