Removing the radiator, PAS pump and oil cooler

The way usually recommended to remove the motor from the Lotus Excel is to remove the motor plus gearbox in one step. I will add a combined method for this that I assembled from the Lotus excel forum. I'm being guided by this method, but its only a guide because  for several reasons I think it is probably best to remove the engine separately from the gearbox in my case. This is firstly because the motor is already partially dismantled the head has been removed and also some of the ancilliaries; this means that access to the upper bell housing bolts is greatly improved. Secondly my car has no handbrake, brakes and no functioning engine, it cannot be easily moved. What is even worse is that it has to be kept parked parked on an inclined drive and rolling backwards is prevented by means of chocks under the rear wheels and engaging a gear. If I were to remove the gear box this would obviously also remove one of these means of immobilization. Finally, the car is parked closely against the front of the garage and this limits the amount of lift I can achieve with the hoist before its arm jams against garage door frame. I haven't room to roll the car backwards away from the garage and given the lack of brakes this would be tricky anyway. Most of these problems could be overcome if I had more helpers available but sadly this is going to be a one-man job  and keeping everything small, light and moving things as little as possible seems more achievable. Also, when removing the engine and gearbox as a unit its necessary to raise the front of the car by about three inches as the propshaft end of the gearbox has to swing through a downwards arc in order to achieve a steep enough angle to allow the combination to be lifted through the bonnet opening. I am hoping that removing only the engine will also reduce (or even eliminate) the extent of this "swing" meaning that the motor can be lifted out without raising the car and requiring a lower elevation of the hoist arm. Accordingly I set about removing as many of the ancillaries as I could in order to lighten the motor and slim down the unit for more simple removal

The first item on my list was  was the oil cooler. In my case the cooler itself had already been detached from the lower cross member but remained attached to the motor via the two oil pipes connected to the oil filter adaptor of the auxiliary housing unit

Twin hoses connect oil cooler to adapter unit. double 28mm union nuts

Oil cooler unit viewed looking downwards into engine bay in front of radiator. Cooler already detached  from cross member

Removing these unions requires two 28 millimetres spanners, holding the upper nut whilst unscrewing the lower.  I suspect that there should be some rotation in the hose which would make this easier but in my case there was none (possibly due to corrosion) and unscrewing the union nuts simply contorted the hoses themselves. Eventually I did manage to loosen them and some rotation was restored, however I think this process has probably damaged the hoses and I will replace them with new.  Once detached the hoses and oil cooler unit could be removed together a somewhat messy task since residual oil drains are out of the hoses! I could then remove the pipes from the cooler unit using an adjustable wrench to hold the soldered nuts on the cooler whilst the pipe unions (28mm again) were undone.

Unscrewing oil pipes from cooler- hold the welded nut on top of the cooler and unscrew the union below.

Adapter unions once pipes have been removed. Note earth cable attached to right hand engine mounting.

 Having removed the oil cooler I could then see the earthing strap connected to the right hand engine mounting bolts underneath the adapter unit. I detached this wire.

The next step was to remove the power steering pump; this is fixed to  a bracket that is itself bolted along the left hand side of the motor. The pump is attached to the front of this bracket with two bolts; One is a simple hex bolt that feeds through the adjustment slot in the bracket mount and a second is an Allen headed bolt which allows the pump to pivot.

Power steering pump seen from above LHS of motor. The attachment bracket is seen running along the side of the motor (top)  and held by two bolts. The bracket has a 90 deg bend in it and the PAS pump is mounted onto the bent side. This picture shows the rear pipe union that connects output fluid to the steering rack and the input pipe connecting the pump to the fluid reservoir entering the PAS pump from the top

Front of PAS, note hex bolt through belt tension adjustment bracket and Allen both through pump pivot

I removed both front bolts which left the PAS retained by a pipe union to the rear output pipe that feeds the steering rack, and another pipe which connects to the reservoir.

I photographed the pipe union pattern at the rack as this will need to be disconnected later when the rack gores for reconditioning

... and also the hose routing between reservoir (right side) and PAS pump, pipes running around the coolant reservoir.

... and unscrewed the output hose union again using the two spanner method (care some fluid will spill). I also detached the "fluid in" hose.

The fluid inflow hose already had a detached mounting bracket... I am not sure where that should be attached!

After this I set about removing the radiator- not strictly necessary in order to remove the motor, but I will want it pressure tested/restored before I refit it anyway and removing it now at least prevents it from being damaged in the engine removal.

However the way to remove it  at first appeared mysterious... and then just complicated! The radiator fits within a 2 piece box. open at the front to funnel air straight to the rad. The upper box section consists of left and right sides and an upper cross-section. Its attached by three bolts at the front (2 left, one right) and 2 bolts underneath where the sides curve under the body. The lower section is shaped like a tray and clips on at the front being retained by one bolt each side into captive nuts at the rear (i.e. nearest the engine). These enter the body a little behind the lower bolts attaching the box upper section. The radiator occupies the square opening of this composite box and is attached by 4 brackets (1 pop riveted on at each corner). Each bracket carrying a mounting stud. The studs project vertically upwards and downwards to penetrate the fibreglass box above, and fibreglass tray shrouding below each being fastened using large washers and nyloc nuts.  Unfortunately the upper bracket fastenings are difficult to get to but are accessible (just) in behind the ridge of the upper cross section of the radiator box. They are 10mm nyloc nuts and can be unscrewed with difficulty using a ratchet spanner.

Edge of cross member of the fibreglass box crossing above radiator. Mounting nuts are recessed behind this flange above some disgustingly wet/slimy shock absorbing foam. Pic shows LHS

Right hand upper mounting nut also hidden behind the crossmember flange, but  access blocked by radiator hose. Note bolt in body holding RHS of radiator fibreglass box I removed this in an attempt to get more movement.

LHS radiator box mountings- 2 bolts on this side each have a nut on the rear which must be held while the bolt is removed. Note the odd steady stay that fixes onto the lower of these two bolts. Its upper end was free and I'm not sure either what this is for or where it should be attached at the top. I removed both bolts and the stay which...

which has an odd wire clip attached. Again I am not sure what this is for or where it should attach. NOTE have since found that this is indeed a radiator brace and should be fitted horizontally from centre left to fan cowing.

I had now removed the three bolts from the radiator box sides but there was still no movement in the radiator. This was still held by the hoses so radiator hoses were removed from top and bottom positions,

Top hose fits into central switch pipe which carries otter switch... note side mounting rad box bolt now out!

Switch pipe is detached with a single screw to the P clip

Top hose then pulls free, but note overflow union attached on the other side of switch pipe as a small offshoot. This must also be detached.

better view of offshoot pipe, removed by undoing the Jubilee clip.. 

Offshoot pipe is held in clips across the top of the bonnet fairing as it crosses the bonnet and from which it is disconnected.

I was then able to get a 10 mm spanner onto the top radiator mounting studs by reaching up inside the front fairing on each side.However there was still no movement, the radiator being held by the bottom studs trapped in the bottom tray.
In my car both nuts and washers were already missing from the lower radiator brackets. The studs penetrate the radiator bottom tray but I couldn't remove the radiator because its a case of removing the tray first! The tray is held on by a bolt and captive nut at each side. The RHS is shown below and is simply unscrewed with a 13mm spanner.

Radiator bottom tray fairing viewed from below. Radiator bracket stud (without nut) is visible centre left. The captive nut holding the radiator bottom tray 13mm, is visible centre right and the larger 15mm nut below retains the radiator box side

Both lower fairing nuts (box and tray) unscrewed easily on the left, but on the right  the captive bolts weren't quite as captive as they should have been and presented no end of trouble. In the end I could remove the 15mm radiator box lower bolt by removing the headlight and stretching a 15mm socket on an extension down into the cavity from above. In fact, loosening the upper box fastenings didnt really help in terms of giving any more movement in the radiator. I will check as to whether its necessary to remove this box to fix the rotten bulkhead plywood... In which case I should do that now, but if not then I will just clean and refit the bolts.

View inside RHS headlamp pod, 15mm lower box mounting nut visible lower left of centre, the 13mm radiator tray retaining bolt is visible above it and to the left... but this wasn't held by a normal nut, it was instead a strange form of nut probably originally fixed in fibreglass. It was virtually impossible to grip. Note that the plywood bulkhead here is rotten as observed previously and will need to be replaced. 

All attempts to loosen the 13 mm stud retaining the radiator base tray failed,  in the end the nut did start to loosen but it broke the radiator tray lug before it undid completely.

Broken section of radiator tray with recalcitrant locknut

Broken section of radiator tray in position. This will need a fibreglass repair eventually

I attempted repair using fibreglass. First I roughened and cleaned the edges and then aligned them overlapping the join with zinc mesh. The whole area was then covered in activated resin and several overlapping sheets of fibreglass stippled down into it.

When set the repair was solid although it was now noticeably thicker than the original.

The radiator then lifted out and could be removed for checking.
The last part to remove before tackling the bell house bolts is the starter motor and its associated cables. I fitted this used, replacement motor as the original was u/s. The copper terminals are as I recall damaged so its removal may be more tricky than it should be.

Here is the procedure I have been basing my approach on. I didn't write it, just assembled it form various entries on the Lotus excel forum... plus a few bits I have added. No guarantees!

Engine Gearbox Removal Lotus Excel

There are a few threads here which cover this.  It is much easier and better to remove engine and gearbox as a unit, but for the combined unit to clear the ground, the car needs to be approx. 3" above normal ride height at the front. This can be achieved by standing the front wheels on 3" to 4" timber. Care must be taken when selecting jacking points at rear if you are going to unscrew the propshaft from the differential, however in brief remove as follows:

Remove:

1. Disconnect the battery in the boot and the engine earthing strap under the bonnet.

2. From inside the car remove:

Gear stick assembly from inside the car.

Reverse switch wire, (switch underneath, access from in car).

Clutch linkage return spring.

3. Under the bonnet; Remove Air Cleaner Box (Front & Back).

4. Drain coolant, Disconnect all All Water Hoses and remove radiator to prevent damage.

5. Drain oil from engine and gearbox.

6. Protect bodywork around motor then

7. Disconnect cables from (or remove entirely)...

a. Starter Motor

b. Alternator.

c. Remove lead between distributor to amplifier

d. Carburettor cables or detach carbs- leave intake manifold in place.

8. Disconnect fuel pipes (unscrew glands).

9. Unbolt slave cylinder from bell-housing so there is no need to disturb cut/remove the pipe... OR... cut (and later replace) clutch Fluid Hose.

10. Oil cooler adaptor, (under Oil Filter), wrap in poly bag and tie up high out of the way.

11. Remove completely the front section of the exhaust.

12. If you can, remove the Power Steering Pump, if access is a problem disconnect it from the Engine.

13. Unscrew and remove the 4 differential flange-to-propshaft Bolts & Nuts (Not essential for removal but this makes refitting easier as it gives more flexibility for alignment of the prop and gearbox)

14. Fit a canvas sling around centre two Intake Manifold ducts, you will lift it using these! (Fit an additional safety chain loosely around the motor just in case!). Check that there is nothing else attached to the block, head or manifolds.

15. Fit trolley jack under Gearbox - locate carefully.

16. Take weight off engine mounts (lift engine / gearbox), (adjusting trolley Jack).

17. Remove 'intake side' Engine mounting bracket completely.

18. Undo bolts from bottom of 'exhaust side' mounting bracket, from underneath where Exhaust was.

19. Raise engine slightly & place 15mm wooden board between Sump & Chassis.

20. Lower engine, (adjusting trolley jack).

21. Remove the 4 bolts holding gearbox to Chassis, (these are the ones hidden up high).

22. Raise the engine and slide the unit forward, pulling the prop shaft out of gearbox. This may be quite stiff and you will need a receptacle under the gearbox to catch excess oil.

23. When the engine is high enough remove the trolley jack completely.

24. Hoist out engine manipulating it to clear the PAS Pump and radiator if either are still In the car.

25. Move engine clear and stand it level on three bits of wood.

Refitting cam housings and cylinder head studs

Having finally finished sorting out the tappet shims, the next step was to reassemble the head.
AHAH   gentle reader...  time to play ,"Spot the moron"! I haven't worked on ohc motors before and completely forgot that fitting cam carriers blocks access to the head nuts!!!! Sooo... the head must be fitted before you can fit the cam carriers!!! I fitted the carriers at this stage only to come unstuck later. The method here is OK so I won't repeat it later but be warned... fit the head first!!!


The first thing was to take it apart after the last shim check

Head assembled from last shim check! 

Exhaust cam housing

 I stuck the tappet shims in place with assembly lube and also brushed some around the shim buckets

Remove the old O ring from the oil spigot roll pin.

2 new ones supplied with head gasket set

I used Gemlok PG307 to seal the cam houses to the head. This is the same stuff I used to seal the MBP to the block

Continuous bead around the edges of the cam house- going inboard of all the studs.

 This is the exhaust cam house. For this I put the compound on the actual housing inboard of the mounting studs. I could then invert it onto the head and torque it down evenly.

For the inlet cam housing I tried adding the gasket goo to the cam house. This is a smooth surface and much easier to apply, however it is all too easy to overflow the contact area and put too much on.

Cam house about to be lowered onto the head and torqued down.

 I think overall the second method- applying the gasket maker to the smooth surface is probably easier and faster- certainly it gave me more confidence in achieving a seal. I think I have undoubtedly used too much but hey- I don't want to be doing this again in the near future*  so I don't want any leaks.
*(Hollow laugh added later!)
The next step was to refit all the studs in the head. There are 12 exhaust manifold studs (40 mm), 9 inlet manifold studs (35 mm; the head is drilled and tapped for 11 but the manifold has only got holes for 9!) and a single cam belt guard stud (45mm) that fits into the side of the head (exhaust side) near the front. This stud needs an O ring seal. I don't really know what this is for because my guard was disassembled when I got it and many parts are missing. However I have refitted it. Sadly the O ring seal wasn't included in a head gasket kit so I used a nitrile one of a close fit.

I had already cleaned all the studs and chased their threads with a spare die and chucked out any bent or terminally corroded ones. I don't think they are perfect but they will do. In fact I had several that were unsaveable and so I fitted about 9 new ones overall.

I used thread seal to lubricate and fix the studs. I have had too many experiences where the stud unscrews from the head instead of the nut when trying to remove a manifold. I'm trying to prevent these in the future.

 I screwed all studs into the head down to their saddles using a stud remover/installer socket.

Here we have it head assembled! The cam covers are only resting on to keep out the much until I'm ready to refit it to the block.

Setting the valve clearances-shims and tappets!

I got delayed by Christmas and the cold weather but eventually I got around to re shimming the tappet buckets for the correct valve clearances. On the 912 these are 5-7 thou inlet and 10-12 exhaust. I made a simple Excel spreadsheet to sort out the arithmetic and guard against mental aberration whilst calculating the shim size needed. The spreadsheet is here if anyone wants to have a look- as usual comments appreciated. Please download a copy for yourself  rather than trying to use it on the web. Make sure you have the latest copy of Google Sheets,  click the three dots in the top left and select "sharing".  Click on "make a copy" to download to Google Drive.

It should work for any engine just change the max/min clearances specified for your motor in the top boxes, and then enter your measured values for shim thickness and valve clearances. Work only in mm or thousandths of an inch - don't mix measurements (-obviously). There is a conversion calculator at the bottom just in case. You should enter values only into the yellow cells, the others are formulae and should be locked.

Having made sure that the tappet buckets were a good sliding fit in the housing (see post on cam housings), I then measured all the shims (which were still paired with their valves). It seemed that many had been filed or ground, and this meant that they were now tapered. This was an unexpected complication as I needed accurate measurements in order to calculate the new shims needed. In the end I measured their thickness in the centre where they would touch the valve stem tip. I measured the full set twice using a digital micrometer and tabulated the readings for comparison. Most were identical but readings were highly dependent on where you measured them which is obviously not good. I will change all of these so that all shims have parallel sides. I then reassembled the head and cam housing including shims making sure that they sat squarely down in the valve retainer head. I oiled the tappet buckets before refitting the housing- but without sealant (The housing will be on and off several times rather than clean up and replace the gunk each time I have chosen to ignore sealant thickness in terms of affecting the valve clearances). I set the head on two wooden blocks (taking care not to obstruct the valves) and then nipped the nuts up tight, but not to the full torque (This was a mistake... see on!). I could then rotate the camshaft to  measure the clearances under the heel of the cams.

Cam housings reassembled onto head

Head raised on wooden blocks because...

The valves will protrude below the head as the camshaft operates them. This shows maximum opening, ignore the screwdriver lower right and below valve head, its on the bench behind.

NB as the cam houses are angled, I measured the clearance when the cam tips were in line with the centre moulded dots on the housing arches.

Cams lined up with central moulding marks on cam house "arches"

I used a bent set of feeler gauges for this as they also coped well with the angle - this set is marked in both mm and thou and are very useful. Sadly the selection of sizes isn't as thorough as you might like so some ingenuity is required to get the feeler size you actually want! Again I went through the whole series twice to make sure I trusted the values. It was usually a case of finding the first size to slip under and that made it quite clear. There seemed to be a lot of  latitude in the camshaft position... Easier than some bikes!

Angled feeler gauges. I used the Draper 12 blade set. These are great because the angle allows easy access to the cam base but the extra width of the gauge allows you to check the whole of the contact between cam and tappet at once. I know this shouldn't make a difference, but some of my shims turned out to have been tapered by poor grinding in the past so the clearance varied across the contact areas. The gauges only go down to 8 thou though, so great for exhaust  or determining "too high" clearances but you will need something smaller for checking a correct inlet setting- or anything that's closed up smaller than that.

I found the inlet valves were at least in the right area. All had closed up though due to the seat regrind and a couple had no detectable clearances at all ... which means less than 1.5 thou and I wasn't sure how to deal with these, but in the end decided to assume a value of "0" and deduct the full clearance value from the shim. I may be lucky but more likely will need another round of measuring for these. The shims themselves are quite cheap but the minimum postage costs at SJS are a bugger so I hope to avoid an extra order if I can! The exhaust clearances were all too high- this was expected as I've used new, non-Lotus valves from KPH engineering and these are a little shorter in the stem than the originals. However, as I had the seats recut this will have compensated to some extent by moving the whole valve upwards into the head. Even so I will need thicker shims for all of these .

I calculated the shim thicknesses required and ordered them all from SJS. They arrived promptly so after the Xmas break I set about installing them. The 95 thou seemed to have been supplied as an empty bag but apart from that all the other 12 were fine so I just fitted a spare of approximate size for reassembly. I had expected to be able to reuse another 3 by swapping them around to positions where their size was appropriate.
Having assembled the houses again I measured the clearances once more - now all were very close but most were actually  smaller than expected - and it is then Dear Reader, that the truth dawned. As I hadn't torqued the cam carriers down to the specified setting, I couldn't reproduce the tightness accurately. Variations in the tightness actually affected the clearances; I hadn't expected any significant effect at all! Anyway I was then obliged to torque both housings to the specified 15 ftlb and re-determine all clearances for yet another set of shims! My calculations had aimed for a midpoint value in the permissible range, but the effect of this torquing error was to close down the clearances by 1-2 thou and  8 valves were now in spec (although on the lower limit), leaving problems with 6.
Of the two valves that had previously given zero clearance, one was now measurable although still too small, and the other had still got no clearance and so will need to be tried again with a thinner shim. One further valve gave a very strange high value (20 thou) well over the expected, calculated  clearance*. (* I had attributed this to my bad measurement but in fact it later turned out to be a supply error, the shim in question being 95 thou rather than the 105 ordered and specified on its label). Of the remaining 3, one still needs a 95 thou shim (which was missing from my order - presumably having been supplied as the 105) and the final 2 had suffered from the torquing problem and closed up too far giving clearances 2 thou lower than expected and sadly now one thou below acceptable! In any event as expected I will need a few more shims (in fact 6) in order to try again to obtain the correct clearances all over. I will also order a spread of sizes for the valve with no clearance to ensure that I can get it in the right range.

Well friends, it took another couple of iterations to get it right but got there in the end.  As I later discovered the labeling error it meant that I hadn't actually got a 105 thou shim at all so I had to machine down a 170 shim to 105 in the end rather than wait for yet another order. This turned out to be surprisingly straight forward ... but I had to fit the shim into the lathe using a magnetic pick up tool from the front of the lathe jaws to make sure I could hold it squarely as I tightened the jaws. It worked pretty well and ran true after a couple of tries. Even so I don't think it would be possible to work on shims less than 100 thou as there simply isn't enough to grip in the lathe. Maybe there is some mandrel that could hold them whilst their faces are skimmed?

I have to say that finding a whole set of clearances spot on is a very satisfying thing! Anyway job done. I will refit everything with sealant and new O rings under the oil feed spigots before fitting the head back on the block. My new workshop crane has come now (2 tonne long reach) so its soon going to be time to start swapping the motors about!

Anyway before leaving the shimming exercise here is a summary of what I have learnt from this experience:
1. If shims are tapered chuck them away, you can use any old shim to measure an initial clearance but NOT if its tapered.
2. If you get new shims don't assume they have been put in the right bags, check them as they arrive. One of mine was supposedly 105 but in fact was a 95 and this caused no end of problems.
3. Check and double check that the clearances and shims you measure have been recorded against the right valve. I found it very easy to forget whether I had counted from  valve no 1 or no 8!
4. Always torque the cam housing down fully before checking clearances.

Well that's it for this job; hopefully I won't need to do it again in the immediate future!

Water pump reconditioning?

Well it was apparent as I stripped both motors that the water pumps on each were different.

The motor in the car was fitted with a large format pump- apparently identical to the pre 85 pump illustrated in the parts list.

The pump that came with the spare motor was smaller and resembled the post 86 pump, but it wasn't by any means identical; the main differences were some variations in the pipe moulding patterns and a lack of stub pipe to thermostat housing and the blocking off of the heater return stub pipe opening on the front of the  pump body.
**
Although I had believed this was a post 86 pump, I have since discovered that it is in fact an earlier model as fitted to the Eclat or Excel 907 motors and which was  superceded by the larger pump used on the Excel (and for Elites/Eclats with aircon) and which was fitted to the motor in the car.

The pump that came with the spare engine is in worse condition with a bent shaft, but since I had intended to renovate one of them anyway, I still do have a choice as to which I use. The pump selected then dictates the fitting of other components such as the hoses required and possibly brackets for other ancillary equipment as well.

Parts diagram-later pump on left, pre-86 pump (larger) on right

Pre 85 style on right, pump from spare motor and subsequently identified as Eclat/Elite on left. The heater recirculation pipe inlet wasn't an original feature of this pump but one has been added and subsequently blocked off 

Block mating surfaces of both pumps- both need cleaning but hole patterns are the same and both fit nicely onto the block.  Note that the temp sender mounting hole is also blocked in the Elite/eclat pump. 

According to the parts lists, the pre 85 style pump is fixed to the block by 4 25mm bolts around the edge and a single 75mm that passes through the deeper hole right through the pump body. However in my case I had found that the lower two bolts also passed through the PAS pump bracket which is positioned outside the water pump and these are 35mm long.

Note mounting hole bottom right (in this view) of the thermostat housing in this pump which goes right through the thickness of the pump body and is filled by the 75mm bolt....

and in this one (Elite/Eclat)where the thickness of the casting is reduced.

I am also told that Lotus generally over-drilled the block holes and used bolts that were shorter than the full length of thread available. If so then longer bolts might be accommodated relatively simply. I think its probably best to use the longest that will still screw up to the relatively low torque specified for this position; 7-8 lb ft. I ordered an Allen button cap bolt M6 25mm to use under the auxiliary pulley where my own bolt was missing.

Given that the pre 86 pump I have is in better condition (shaft not bent), it appears to be correct for the year of car and that I have most mounting bolts, hoses and a matching alternator bracket, it seems wisest to go with this pump. However, since I cannot be sure of its condition and  as it has been sitting unused for many years (albeit surprisingly with water in it!) I think I will still send it away for renovation.

Block mating surface, the pattern of 5 bolt holes fits with either pump.

Having looked around I decided to order a rebuilt pump (exchange) from PNM engineering  who appear to offer the best price. I sent them the pictures above to confirm the price and the suitability of their kit. Interestingly, they didn't recognise the second (smaller) pump as a Lotus pump at all- which at least confirmed my decision to use the bigger one. However, I know that this pump was fitted to the block of my second motor and that its bolt pattern matches. Further this pump has the numbers 907E and 02196 stamped on it so I think it must mean its a Lotus pump. I checked the parts list for earlier cars also using the 907 block, and although I couldn't find this number, I did see that this pump looks very much like an earlier pump fitted to the Elites or Eclats w/o air con. The same parts list also revealed that Elites/Eclats with air con were fitted with a different pump (C907E0878J) that resembles closely that used later on Excels - including my car, although this pump has acquired a different number (A912E0878J). These two numbers don't seem a great distance apart but presumably there is some difference to the pumps to warrant a number change? If I find out what it is I will post it here.

Elite Eclat parts list, note resemblance to the two pumps I have. The second motor's pump looks like that on the left whilst the one fitted to the car when I got it is very like that on the right. Note the pump on left has no heater return hose stub and apparently no temperature sender drilling either. Image reproduced from RD enterprises.

It therefore seems that the more chunky pump is right for my car.

I also ordered some new hoses from SJS- I suspected attempting reuse of my hardened hoses is just a way of booking a second strip-down in pretty short order so best to use new. I did notice a bit of a mystery regarding the inlet manifold to pump hose though; in the diagram (above) it's shown as a simple, straight hose- and indeed that's what I found had been fitted when I took it apart (see removing the head... although I did have to cut the hose to remove it). However, the replacement sold by SJS for this position has a slight kink in it, a straight hose being sold for the HC engine only. I am not therefore sure which is best for this car. Also given the evidence of attention by the LBPO, I can't be sure that the wrong hose hasn't been fitted in the past. Overall, I think that I will follow the parts list  and will order the straight HC motor hose - its about half the price anyway and so the cheapest to start with. I can always order the kinked hose later if needed.

OOOps...The Best laid plans....
I had to clean the nasty old RTV gunk from the pump before mailing it to PNM- and having done this I could then see that the bolt holes are in a bad state- 2 are very enlarged and distorted and 2, although still round, look rather larger than the M6 bolt that should go through them! I am therefore worried that it won't sit firmly and could move on the block in service. This might explain why it was fitted with RTV gunk rather than the gasket which is correct for this year. I therefore need to reconsider my selection of pump to use for my resto; or get an age-appropriate used one to recondition.

Note two distorted bolt holes bottom and Right revealed once the RTV has been cleaned off. All holes are intended to accept an M6 bolt but even the two top and left look rather bigger than the deeper and undistorted hole shown top right at app 2 O' clock